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Faking It
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FAKING IT

Are veggie burgers and phony bologna better than the real thing?

By Kristen Wolfe Bieler

PUBLISHED 02/08/2006

Skipping the meat course has never been easier. With about 12 million vegetarians in the United States, and many other health-conscious and environmentally concerned folks trying to cut down on meat, the number of fake meat products in your grocer's refrigerated section has multiplied in the last decade. In these items, soy, wheat, and other plant ingredients replace beef, pork, and chicken. Even some fast-food chains offer up veggie burgers. But is a slice of meatless bologna really more nutritious than a piece of lean white turkey meat?

It's a question many nutritionists wish runners would ask themselves more often. Andrea Rudser, R.D., who counsels athletes in Chicago, prefers that her clients eat real foods, including real meat. That's because many substitute meats, while positioned as "healthy" simply by virtue of their meatlessness, are produced through extensive processing. "Alternative meats can be loaded with fillers and fat," says Rudser.

Meat "analogs," as they are unappetizingly referred to in food labs, are often manipulated to retain moisture and fat to take on the texture of meat. Manufacturers also use powdered concentrates, gums, and pectins to keep the ingredients from turning to mush. "People equate vegetarianism with virtuous eating, and that isn't always true," says Jo-Ann Heslin, a New York-based dietitian. "You need to read labels and choose wisely."

Check the List

When examining the labels of faux meat items, runners should note a few key areas. The first is sodium content. Typical of most processed foods, veggie and soy burgers can contain five times the amount of sodium you'd get in a real beef burger. "No one needs more than 2,400 milligrams of sodium a day," says Heslin. "If a product has 900 milligrams per serving and you're eating two servings--which is not outrageous for a runner--sodium content becomes an issue." Choose products with less than 400 milligrams per serving. And serve them with natural whole foods such as salads and fruits in lieu of salty chips or fries.

Watch the fat content, as well. "If a meat substitute contains more than 30 percent fat per serving, there are definitely better choices available," says Heslin. Also, avoid products with encyclopedic-length labels filled mainly with mysterious-sounding ingredients such as disodium guanylate and MSG replacers. And while Heslin likes the high fiber makeup of many fake meats, runners need to be careful not to eat them too close to a workout or race, since they may lead to intestinal discomfort or diarrhea. Stick with products offering fewer than five grams of fiber at least two to three hours before your next run.

Your best bets for protein content are soy-based meat alternatives. Soy protein is superior to wheat protein because it's low in fat and can help lower cholesterol. "Vegetable protein products such as soy burgers and seitan are excellent sources of certain essential amino acids needed for tissue repair and new protein synthesis," says Robert S. Lawrence, M.D., a board member of the Meatless Monday national campaign to prevent disease by cutting saturated fat one day a week.

See More Articles in VEGETARIAN DIET

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